Things to See and Do at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach Hawaii
Are you looking to visit Punalu’u Black Sand Beach on the Big Island, Hawaii? Let me tell you all about it!
I lived on the Big Island for a year, only a few minutes from Punalu’u Black Sand Beach. I enjoyed going down to relax and explore this black sand beach and discovered there’s much more to this park than just sand and turtles?
Punalu’u (pronounced poo-na-loo-oo) Black Sand Beach makes for a good day trip or a stop along your way to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
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What is Black Sand?
Black sand is broken down lava so is naturally found in areas with volcanoes. These black crystals can vary in size from fine table salt to coarse Himalayan salt. They can be shiny like glass and tend to be heavier in weight than “normal” sand.
Hawaii does not allow taking any sand of any color off the island. If you do, you could be hit with up to a $100,000 fine.
Where is Punalu’u Black Sand Beach?
Punalu’u Black Sand Beach is an easily accessible beach park on the southern end of the Big Island about 69 miles from Kona and 58 miles from Hilo. There isn’t much in the way of civilization close by. Naalehu is 10 miles away and is your closest stop for gas, coffee, and food.
There are two ways to enter Punalu’u Beach from Hwy 11 (Mamaloha Hwy): either on Ninole Loop Rd or Punalu’u Rd. If you take the Ninole Loop Rd you will pass by the Sea Mountain Golf Course and some condos to rent within walking distance to the black sands.
Turtles at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach
I have never gone to Punalu’u Black Sand Beach and NOT seen sea turtles. This is probably your best chance of seeing them on the Big Island (though they are abundant everywhere).
Sea turtles beach themselves to regulate their body temperature and rest. Hawaii is the only place in the world where a sea turtle will bask on the beach almost everyday.
Both the endangered hawksbill and green sea turtles like to sunbathe on this beach. The best way to tell them apart is the hawksbill has a pointy beak while the green turtle has more of a softer curved beak.
Hawaiian sea turtles are federally protected and therefore it is illegal to touch, ride, feed or harass them. Stay 20 feet away from them both in and out of the water.
Look for small orange cones on the beach. Cones are placed around beached turtles to both indicate a turtle is resting there and give you a safely-distanced boundary from it.
If you don’t see any orange cones, check the rock wall section to the south of the lifeguard hut. The turtles often like to congregate there.
On the off chance there aren’t any sunbathing turtles, keep your eyes peeled in the water. Sometimes you can spot their little heads popping up while they’re swimming.
Kauila – Sea Turtle Legend
A commemorative placard at the south end parking lot tells the sweet legend of Kailua the turtle:
“KAUILA AND THE SEA TURTLES OF PUNALU’U
THE MYSTICAL TURTLE, KAUILA, MAKES HER HOME IN THE KA’U DISTRICT AT PUNALU’U BAY. ACCORDING TO HAWAIIAN MYTHOLOGY, KAUILA WAS EMPOWERED WITH THE ABILITY TO TURN HERSELF FROM A TURTLE INTO HUMAN FORM AND WOULD PLAY WITH THE CHILDREN ALONG THE SHORELINE AND KEEP WATCH OVER THEM. THE PEOPLE OF KA’U LOVED KAUILA AS THE GUARDIAN OF THEIR CHILDREN AND ALSO FOR HER SPRING THAT GAVE THEM PURE DRINKING WATER.
THE PRESENCE OF KAUILA CAN STILL BE FELT TODAY BY THE SEA TURTLES THAT INHABIT THIS SPECIAL PLACE. THE HAWAIIAN HONU (GREEN SEA TURTLE) CAN BE REGULARLY SEEN IN THE BAY FEEDING ON LIMU GROWING IN THE SHALLOWS. IN ADDITION, THE HONU’EA (HAWKSBILL TURTLE) SOMETIMES ENTER THE BAY AT NIGHT TO CRAWL ASHORE AND DEPOSIT EGGS IN THE BLACK SAND. BOTH SPECIES OF SEA TURTLES ARE FULLY PROTECTED UNDER THE U.S. ENDANGERED SPECIES ACT AND WILDLIFE LAWS OF THE STATE OF HAWAII. ENJOY WATCHING THESE MARVELOUS CREATURES BUT DO NOT TOUCH OR DISTURB THEM IN ANY WAY.”
Admission Fee and Hours at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach
Entrance to the park is FREE.
The park is always open with no designated open times.
Parking at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach
There are 3 different parking lots to choose from at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach.
Continuing on Ninole Loop, the first parking lot is paved with designated parking spots. This puts you at the south end of the beach.
If you keep following Ninole Loop the second parking lot comes at a “roundabout” tree. This is a smaller, gravel parking lot without marked parking spots. Be courteous to others and park by the next car over so as many cars as possible can fit in this section. This lot puts you in the center of the black sand beach.
The third parking lot is still further on Ninole Loop. It’s the next gravel road on the right and winds down a bit. It will put you on the north end and edge of the beach. This is the least used parking lot.
South End vs. North End of Punalu’u Black Sand Beach
The south end of the park is the greener section. Grassy knolls blanket around the pavilions and scaevola taccada invade the coastline. There are very few shade options on this end but it is also a less crowded section of the park.
You can walk from the south end to the north end without having to drive to the different parking lots.
The north end of the park is where the black sands are and the whole reason you are here. Set yourself up under the palm trees where there’s shade and the black sand stays cool.
Bring a hammock to set up between the perfectly spaced palm trees for that lazy Hawaiian-life Instagram pic.
A beautiful field of water lilies lie in a freshwater pond behind the beach and further beyond that lies a hidden, lesser-known mystery…
Abandoned Sea Mountain Resort
As of September 2022, Punalu’u Black Sand Beach is undergoing a huge remodel and this abandoned resort is now fenced off and is scheduled for demolition. Enjoy what you can through the trees while it’s still there.
Oddly, there is little information about the abandoned restaurant/resort/village right under your noses. Back behind the waterlily pond, there is a nondescript path from the second parking lot that leads to the abandoned buildings.
The Sea Mountain Resort was built in 1973 but a tsunami destroyed the place in 1975. It was never restored and what’s left is an eerie, ghostly shell of what once was a seemingly magnificent property.
Let your imagination run wild as you walk amongst the rubble and colorful graffitied walls that the forest is trying to take back. Perhaps a velociraptor will jump out at you at any moment. Or maybe Indiana Jones will come save you from a cursed artifact.
Most people aren’t aware of this hidden-in-plain-sight…site. You will likely be the only person wandering the grounds, which adds to the creepiness of the property.
Hokuloa Church
Another site at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach that very few people visit is the Hokuloa Church (or Henry Opukahaia Chapel) and cemetery.
It is directly across the southend parking lot on the mauka side (mountain side) of Ninole Loop Road. There is a gravel road leading up the small hill. You can easily walk up the road or you can drive your vehicle up and park.
This beautiful chapel marks the home of Henry Opukahaia (1792-1818), one of the first native Hawaiians to become a Christian. Henry inspired the American Protestant missionaries to come to Hawaii in the 19th century.
This little outdoor chapel pavilion was built in 1957 but the graves are dated 50+ years before that.
From the top of this hill you have a birdseye view of the ocean and black lava coastline.
Amenities at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach
Bathrooms – Indoor plumbing toilets are located at the southend parking lot. These are the only ones at the beach and are a little far from the sands where most people hang out.
Showers – An outdoor shower is tucked away between the bushes and pavilions at the southend parking lot.
Wheelchairs – The southend parking lot is paved and has wheelchair accessibility. There’s a paved path to the bathrooms and a path that will give you a good view of the black sands and ocean. The rest of the park is not wheelchair accessible.
Picnic Tables – A few picnic tables sit under the palm trees at the beach. Maybe about 5-6 them, so I recommend getting to the park earlier in the morning to better snatch one if you want a table. The south end parking lot has a one with a secluded front row ocean view. Pavilions are available to reserve online.
Food/drink – Do not rely on purchasing food and drink at the beach. There is a vending machine with soda and sometimes there’ll be a vendor selling snacks. If you’re lucky you can get your coconut-on-a-beach experience.
Shopping – The shack on the beach can have up to a few vendors selling overpriced souvenirs like jewelry or t-shirts.
Lifeguards – On duty from 8:30am-5:00pm. Their hut is in the central section of the beach.
Swimming at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach
While you caaaaaaan swim at Punalu’u Beach, it may not live up to your Hawaiian swimming dreams.
First of all, the water is cold! There is underwater freshwater in Punalu’u Bay and because saltwater is denser, the freshwater floats to the top, making for some chilly wading.
Secondly the ocean floor is rocky. Water shoes are recommended to protect your feet from scraping lava rocks.
The water stays shallow pretty far out. You’ll be surprised how far from shore you’ll be and still be able to stand.
Buoy balls are strung out in the bay to let you know how far you should go before the water breaks and gets sketchy and dangerous.
There are warning signs all over indicating strong currents. Be mindful of the waters and ask the lifeguard if you have questions.
Watersports at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach
There are no watersport rentals at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach, you’ll have to bring your own if that’s what you want.
Snorkeling – While this isn’t a snorkeling destination, there’s still some fish to see and you’ll have a good chance of seeing sea turtles too.
Surfing – I have seen people surf out in the breaking waves of the bay, however, this would not be considered a surfing beach.
Fishing at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach
Fishing is allowed at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach. A fishing license or permit is currently NOT required for residents or non-residents. Make sure to research which fish are regulated so you know what’s legal to keep.
Camping at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach
Camping at the park is available with a permit. You can make reservations on the Hawaii County website .
Cost is $20.00 per person as a non-resident. If you are a resident it’s only $5/adult, $2/junior (13-17yrs), and $1/child (12 & under).
Camping is not allowed in the pavilions (those must be reserved for day use). You can pretty much set up your tent wherever else you wish: on a grassy knoll, hidden amongst the lush scaevola taccada, or perhaps smack dab on a lava pad – all with a prime ocean view.
Hiking to Kamehame Beach
If you are up for a 6-mile roundtrip hike to ANOTHER black sand beach (with some green sand sprinkled in) you can walk to Kamehame Beach. Here the endangered Hawksbill turtles nests from June to November, so one should stay off the beach during those times.
This path is also part of the 175-mile Ala Kahakai trail, a National Historic Trail.
You will be exposed to the sun the entirety of the hike as there is no shade. Bring lots of water, sunscreen, and a hat. Also note that your pace may be slower than normal due to the ever-changing landscape, so prepare for it to be a longer hike than you’d expect.
The trailhead is on the south end of the Punalu’u Black Sand Beach at the boat ramp. To the left of the concrete ramp pad you’ll see a trail through the bushes going up about 15ft.
At the top you’ll see a long rock wall. This is 800-year-old Kane’ele’ele Heiau, the largest heiau (or temple) on the Big Island measuring 700 by 500 feet. There is a large flat stone in the southwest corner believed to be a human sacrificial stone.
Follow the path along the a’a lava. Some parts have smooth round stepping stones to relieve your feet.
The terrain changes from a’a lava (jagged, harsh lava), to a grassy dirt road, to pahoehoe lava (smooth and wrinkled lava).
As with the terrain, so the scenery changes as well. Sometimes you are at sea level with the waves reaching out to sweep you off to sea. Next you are towering above the roaring ocean, imagining tossing yourself over the edge like a heartbroken lover.
You’ll even pass some crude outhouses, complete with wet wipes.
While crossing the pahohoe field, look for a giant fissure with fresh water at the bottom. It is somewhere between 30-50 feet deep. The climb down is not for the faint of heart or the halfwits, but it is doable; use common sense.
Continue on and you’ll eventually make it to Kamehame Beach. Look for sparkling green olivine crystals mixed with the black sand.
Backtrack the way you came to return to the trailhead.
Is it worth visiting Punalu’u Black Sand Beach?
Short answer: YES!
You traveled all this way to the Big Island, why wouldn’t you want to see a uniquely colored sand. Check it off your sands-of-many-colors bingo card.
It’s highly probable you’ll see sea turtles. For the non-snorkeler this will be a great opportunity. Or you just might see the resident Muscovy ducks too.
History buffs will enjoy exploring the ruins of a by-gone resort and finding the oldest grave in the cemetery.
A visit to the Big Island, Hawaii isn’t complete without paying a call to Punalu’u Black Sand Beach.
➡️ Download the Shaka Guide app for a self-guided tour around the southern end of the Big Island Here!
Read about more Big Island beaches:
Papakalea Green Sand Beach
Makalawena Beach
Kua Bay Beach
Magic Sands Beach
🌺 Big Island Travel Planning Guide 🌺
🚨 Should I buy Hawaii travel insurance?
YES — I recommend Travel Insurance Master because you can compare multiple options with one click. With plans starting at $5/day per person, why not give yourself piece of mind? Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it!
🚗 Is it safe to rent a car on the Big Island?
YES — It’s totally safe to drive on the Big Island. And unless you plan to chill by the resort pool the entire time, renting a car is pretty much a necessity on the Big Island! Jeep rentals are popular. I recommend Discount Hawaii Car Rental, as they have some of the best prices around.
📞 Will my phone work on the Big Island?
PROBABLY — Most, if not all, cell providers work on the Big Island. However, be prepared for some dead spots in the more remote parts of the island. For example, I always lose service driving through Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
🛏️ What’s the best way to book my Big Island accommodations?
For Big Island hotels, Booking.com is amazing because you can often reserve your room with no money down. If you are looking for an Airbnb condo with a kitchen and more space, don’t forget to check VRBO for potentially better prices and options.
✈️ What’s the best site to buy Big Island flights?
I recommend looking at Skyscanner for finding cheap flights. Pro Tip: check if flying into Hilo is cheaper than flying into Kona.
🛂 Do I need a passport to visit Hawaii?
NO — If you are a US citizen, you do not need a passport as Hawaii is part of the United States. If you are from out of the country, the same passport and visa requirements are the same as entering anywhere in the United States from your country.
🧳What should I pack to the Big Island?
Pack for tropical weather but also prepare for colder than expected nights and early mornings, so a light sweatshirt is recommended. Check out this list of 5 Things Not to Forget to Pack.
